A Tree, A Dam and A Hill

A decision taken at a moment’s notice, with minimum preparation and zero

expectations proved to be immensely rewarding and enriching.

On Sunday morning we decided to take a trip to the famous Banyan tree that has been

around for more than 400 years. We have been in Bangalore for almost ten years and

yet had not crossed this off from  our to-visit-list. Why? Because of the mixed

reviews this place has generated. Some didn’t think much of it, calling it just a bargad

ka ped  (hindi), others were put off by the swinging, snatching, sneering  simians.

But our time to visit the tree had come. It was our first halt on a whirl wind hop on hop

off tour of three destinations.

First Stop- Banyan tree

We started at 7:30 am after a light breakfast at our favourite darshini and got some idlis vadas

packed to satiate  if- we- will- peckish kind of a  feeling! In no time we were on the Nice corridor, 

one big advantage of living south!

After exiting at Mysore, we drove down further for a few more kilometers and took the

right  at the Kumbalagod junction. We drove for 7 kms more through the industrial

 area and arrived at our destination.  The voice on the GPS language as the prompter said 

 in a few hundred metres  the ‘banian’ tree will be arriving on your left! Of course there was 

 no Banian tree but the Big Banyan tree!

                                             Rooted Forest                          

The Big Banyan tree- Dodda Alada Mara, the name in Kannada makes it sound even

more huge.

The main trunk of the tree has fallen and consequently the place gives the feel of many

banyan trees of all ages and sizes spread over an area which the eyes cannot cover. As far

as the eyes can see only roots greet the eye.

                               

                                            Display of Roots                  

The prop roots are a characteristic of Ficus Benghalensis.This place has hundreds.

 Aged trees have many aerial roots that grow into thick woody trunks.

These woody trunks, over time, have become indistinguishable from the main trunk.

The old trees have  spread out laterally and their prop roots cover a wide area-4 acres or

more by Dodda Alada Mara. The mesh of roots growing round the support tree applies

considerable pressure on the main tree and eventually kills it. Hence the Modalina

rembe (original branch) of Dodda Aldamara  is dead  but long live Chikka Aldamaras!

Since it was early morning there were few visitors and the regular ice-cream carts, corn

sellers were missing. It was as if the place was ours and we soaked in the fresh morning

bliss, the simians were behaving, the butterflies were flitting and squirrels were darting

from trunk to trunk!

                                         

                                             Squirrel or Usain bolt?

 There was unbelievable Nirvanic  peace and quiet  prevailing. We just reflected and

  remembered Siddhartha becoming Buddha under the Bodhi tree!

                                               Zen Zone

To add to the sanctified atmosphere there was a small temple - the sounds of the

temple bells, aarti and vandana added much to the atmosphere. Even to the Hindus the

tree is equally sacred as it symbolizes the Hindu trinity.

                                                      To infinity and beyond!

By this time, the vaanar sena  was  waking up to its  antics. I assure you, one can spend

hours looking at them albeit from a distance! Having seen Disney’s Jungle Book at least

ten times, I just felt that these cousins of King Louie were  about to start  swing dancing

to, “I wanna be like you…..."

                                   

                                           Sheltered in Love              

                                          Swinging Times

                                           Trouping Simians                   

After a while the monkeys got bored of us and trooped out. So did we, like them we went

out looking for tea and some snacks. Because we realized that we had not collected our

food parcel from Darshini. Some yummy egg buns were spotted and the non-vegetarians

had a field day, got them packed and having learnt the lesson I zipped the food packet in

my bag!

Now was the time to move to drive to the next stop - The Dam.

Second Stop- Manchanabele Dam

Manchanabele dam is situated in Manchibele village of  Magadi taluk of Bangalore. It

is built on River Arkavati

The reservoir is about 8kms from the banyan tree.  At Dabagguli take the left turn and

continue driving.

We had read about this spot but were totally unprepared for the out of the world beauty

of this place. Just as the road takes an almost serpentine turn, the lake, pristine blue

waits patiently for you to brake suddenly, let out a scream or a silent prayer that, thank

God, no one was tailing you close,  lethargy leaves you, all the senses are wide awake

and you get down admiring the vale, dale and the lake!

                                               Surreal                               

The glorious morning, blue skies and miles and miles of fluffy clouds were simply divine. It is an

undulating meadow reminding you of the Lake District and the tinkling of the cow bells add the

musical charm that was missing so far!

                                            Tree lined meadows            

The blue waters looked inviting but the meadows looked equally tempting. Before we

could make up our minds, we saw a giant monolith forming the backdrop of the lake.

What was that? It looked like the Ayers  rock. Some googling revealed  that it was

Sawandurga

                           
                      

 Sawan durga won hands down. We packed ourselves and drove further on the

serpentine, narrow, country road.

                               

                                           Enchanted drive  

                  

Even more surprising was the change in terrain from gentle undulating terrain we drove

through some interesting rock formations. At times boulders were placed as if the children had

arranged them for a game of seven stones !

                                           Rock arrangements  

            

Sawandurga proved to be enticingly out of reach. It kept on playing hide and seek with

us. Now it was there and now nowhere!

                                       

                                            Peeek-a-boo                  

The road conditions were bad.  Pot holes and countless potholes but the picture perfect

surrounding egged us to drive on. After all Sawan durga was only 12 kms. Really? 

 Because after a while the distance seemed to increase and the hills began to look like a mirage.

The GPS signal was lost. There was no human sighting and there was no vehicle criss- crossing,

not even a cycle!

                                           Happliy Lost...

Fortunately victory greets the brave and we came across a rundown forest department

post kind of a structure, manned! Since I was the best Kannada speaker amongst the

three of us, I was forced out of the car to ask for directions, which I did. And hence the

trip owes everything to me!!

Driving for about 2 kms more we took a right and hit the Magadi - Bangalore Road. The

road was much better and we got the connectivity back.

A metal arch on the right ushered us in Sawandurga.

Third Stop-Sawandurga

Sawandurga is the Bahubali of all monolithic hills in Asia! It is formed by two hills,

Karigudda(black hill) and Billigudda(white hill). It is an extension of Deccan plateau so

geologically it has aged ruggedly!

                                     

                                            The twin hills                   

Pre historically it was home to the early man. Megalithic urns bearing skeletal remains

have been discovered by ASI in the hills.

Historically the earliest mention of the hill is found in the records of Hoysala BallalaIII

where in it is mentioned as Savandi. Another theory is that it was named Samantadurga

after the governor of Achutaraya  posted  at  Magdi, Samantharaya. This was the

secondary capital of the Magdi rulers such as Kempe Gowda. Mysore annexed it and

this history will be continued later.

                                           Miniature Sawandurga or...          

                             

                                           The humblest Nandi, yet...           

Religiously also it is of great significance. It has two important temples. The guardian

deity of the area is Virbhadra. The temple of Sri Savandi Veerabhadraswamy is at the foot of

Sawandurga hills.

                                           Savandi Veerabhadraswamy Temple

                                         

                                          Swinging, sailing clouds.

 I was more fascinated by a small temple which had a stucco finish, adjacent to the temple

than in in the giant concrete structure that is still being erected. Faith comes in many

sizes and forms and to me the dilapidated run down temple looked more devotion worthy.

                          A stuccoed mantapa                                                

There is a Temple of Sri Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy, where there is an Idol of Lord

Narasimha. It  has been worshiped for many generations

                                           Devotees                          

Sawandurga is a haven for trekkers and nature lovers. It has a thick green cover of dry

shrubland but being monsoons, the area could be mistaken for an evergreen forest!

                                          Beauty and Laterite

Rock climbers, cave explorers and adventurers are among other types of people who frequent

the locale.

                                            The Summit                    

Since we had come unprepared we walked around a bit, lazed on the rocky surface

under the shade of trees and pondered over the irony of this trip.

This trip was unplanned because my husband had vetoed the well planned trip to

Rayakottai in Krishnagiri. My penchant for Tipu’s fort is my compass for planning any

trip. But my husband has been OD’ed by the ramshackle forts of Tipu and he wanted

 a change. What a change?? !!

                                            The Entrance              

The first level of the gentle climb greeted us with  the remnants of a Fort wall and I had

gleeefully guessed it be the external wall of a Tipu's fort. And it was indeed so!

 It was lost to the British in the Fourth Anglo Mysore war. Guess one cannot avoid tripping

 on Tipu’s forts if one is tripping in Karnataka!!

l

                                         The Fort wall- First level

After a gentle trek of few metres we retreated, saw couple of brave hearts on the the top

near the Nandi mantapa, saluted them, mentally and sat down to munch and crunch our

lays, kurkure etc etc..

Another family had come with a big picnic basket and a huge tarpaulin. Their planning

was an affront to our lack of  planning and we decided to climb down.

The journey back was uneventful, really? But then what was that?

Two temple towers were spotted in the forest, stuccoed and looking aged. The green

cover was very thick and I was strictly restrained from exploring. I could only manage

 few pictures.It looked similar to the structure which I had seen at Veerbhadraswamy

temple.

This trip suddenly became much more. Because now it held promises of things still to

discover. The aged temple, the megalithic urns and the remnants of  Tipu’s fort -

all added to the promise  of things to come and before I had touched Bangalore I was

planning on returning to Sawandurga. Yes planning !!!!